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*On Orders Over $100We Call Within 48 Business Hours to Confirm OrderImagine you've just invested in a safe to protect your valuables, only to discover that it's too small, too big, easily compromised, or doesn't have enough fire-resistant.
Here are essential factors to consider.
Summary
Size matters. Choosing the wrong size can affect the security of your valuables, the ease of which you can put things in the safe, and problems for future storage needs. Size is the #1 overlooked issue.
One of the most common mistakes people make is buying a safe that's too small for their needs. We've been selling safes for over 25 years and never, not once, has anyone ever said to me, "My safe is too big."
Don't buy a safe for your current needs, buy for your future needs. Plan on 50% more storage than you think you will need.
There is also a security risk. A safe crammed to the brink can prevent the door from properly closing. And if you force it close, it's possible that the door will not open when your code is entered (having pressure on the bolt work causes binding).
This is just about fit. Make sure that the door will fully open to at least 90 degrees in the space where you are putting the safe. If the door does not fully open, you will find it hard and annoying every time you open the safe. The door will hit the wall (or other obstruction) and it will not be easy to place or remove large items.
I once had a customer in my shop ask me for my least expensive safe. During our conversation, he mentioned he planned on putting over $100,000 dollars of content in it! He was focused on price, he needed to be focused on security.
What is the value of the content going into the safe? The level of security you need depends on what you are putting in the safe. See our Recommended Safe Ratings Based on the Value of Content.
Remember, cheap safes are built cheaply.
Think that 50 cubic foot big box store safe is a bargain? Have you seen our How to Choose the Best Safe video on Youtube? The big box store safe in that video is NO bargain.
In order to be sold cheap, cheap safes have to be made cheap. Don't rely on a cheap safe to protect tens of thousands of dollars of content. It won't be secure enough and you may even find that the claimed fire rating was fudged more than a little (Discount Safes Can't Take the Heat).
Investing in a quality safe may cost more upfront, but it will ultimately provide better security and peace of mind.
Safes marketed as fire safes are usually targeting the home safe market. These safes are great for protecting flammables that have little intrinsic value. While they offer protection against fire damage, they don't provide the same level of security against burglary.
On the other hand, burglar safes that focus on preventing unauthorized access almost always come with very good fire ratings. The only real exception is for business safes that are meant to temporarily protect cash, such as drop safes.
To ensure the best protection for your valuables, consider investing in a burglary and fire rated safe. UL ratings can help you determine the level of fire resistance and burglary protection a safe offers.
Some security features may seem impressive, but ultimately are useless. The one I hear all the time is "door thickness." By this, I mean the overall door thickness, not the steel plate on the front of the door.
Overall door thickness means nothing! Safe doors are 90% air. How much air space is in the door is meaningless.
Understanding what fire ratings mean and selecting an appropriately rated safe can save your belongings.
Safe fire ratings indicate how long a safe can protect its content from fire damage. A typical fire rating shows the external temperature and how long the safe can keep the internal temperature below 350°F. This is crucial for protecting paper materials.
In most rural situations, 30 minutes is all you need for a fire rating. But it's 30 minutes of an independent lab tested fire rating. Not an internal test. A 30-minute independent lab-tested fire rating can be more beneficial than a 2-hour "internal" fire rating.
For details see our YouTube videos: Safe Fire Ratings Explained and How Much Fire Rating is Enough?
Most customers think they'll make up for a weakly built safe by bolting it down. This can be a good strategy, but it is not always possible.
Modern post tension slabs on homes built after the mid 90's should not be bolted into without expert knowledge. Doing so can destroy your home's foundation.
Not all safes need to be anchored though. The question you need to ask yourself is: can someone come in here, without knowledge that there's a safe here, and easily remove this safe?
If a dolly can move it, it's a good idea to bolt it down, but short safes that exceed the weight of typical furniture dollies (~800 lbs) don't necessarily need to be bolted down. Short heavy safes are hard to move by professional movers because the center of gravity is so low. They usually require special safe moving equipment.
Tall safes, gun safes, may benefit from being bolted down, even if heavy, unless they are positioned in such that they cannot be knocked over. Tall safes are attacked by knocking them over and trying to pry the door. If the gun safes is too heavy to do this or it is located so that it can't just be knocked over, you may not need to bolt it into the concrete.
To save money, at least one manufacture is selling safes with plastic bodies. Yep, plastic. This allows the lock on the safe to be easily bypassed using magnets. If your buying an inexpensive safe, get one with a combination dial lock so this trick cannot be used.
If you are focused on "what happens if I lose my combination" or "what happens if my lock fails" then you may be looking at safes with key overrides. They can be useful in many safe applications.
But if security is important, don't get a safe with a key override. Keyholes are the weakest point in a safe's lock security. They can be picked, keys can be made, and they can be drilled. For security, skip the key override.